With every clunk of the rickety taxi’s suspension, made worse with potholes the size of watermelons, I am reminded that this is a place where expectations have to be calibrated.
It doesn’t help that I last rode in a white Merc cab 4 hours ago. Now its a dusty blue Hyundai (or is it a Toyota?) where, from the smell of things, the driver had his Mee Bakso 5 minutes ago. Did he just burp?
I hold my breath.
Jogjakarta is by no means pretty, predominantly low-rise with rusty old becaks lining every chipped-kerb pavement. I look out of the grimy window and wonder (nearly loudly), how Lonely Planet could describe this as the center of Javanese culture. With Jakarta, of course, being its economic bastion. It sure doesn’t look very Javanese to me, from the vantage point behind my Bakso-eating driver that is. In fact, with the swarm of ojeks, becaks and an assortment of other precarious two-wheelers at every junction, it feels a little like that other urban-planning-disaster-cum-public-health-warning Mess-tropolis, HCMC. Complete with child beggers slithering in between cars when you are stopped at the lights. Did I also mention that the becak drivers wear Vietnam-resque conical hats? Well the older ones anyway. Add the ubiquitous food carts pushed by scrawny men and women who obviously need to eat more of whatever they are selling, and the similarity begins to unfold more ominously.
All these bad-karmic vibes stop when I knock on Jom’s door and herald myself Here At Last. Its been something I have been talking about for quite a while now. Me coming over to have a slice of his displacement and to perhaps take a nibble out of Borobudur and Prambanan for good measure. I have this thing for Buddhist monoliths and Jenga-like Hindu temples built across SE Asia from Angkor to Ayuthayya. Don’t ask me why because on a religiosity scale, I would be listed as Pagan, namely in worship of an Italian god named Zegna. Perhaps its the curious mix of mysticism and bona fide religion that draws me. I am not sure.
Anyway welcome pleasantries aside, I am quickly left to my own devices after lunch and I choose to linger at a coffee-cafe with a WI-FI connection. If there is a good thing travelling without your Significant Other, its the ability to say, hell I want to sit down right here, smoke in air-conditioned comfort and surf my favorite internet websites till I feel the need to go explore the next warung. With wild abandon if I may add.
The sad thing is, I am a sucker for abuse. So it feels kind of strange without someone nagging that I would rather make love to my laptop.
But I make my way down to Malioboro Street anyway, fully satiated with lunch, coffee and my addiction to the Net temporarily dulled with nicotine. Every 20 steps or so, I am accosted by a becak driver with Nihon-jin des ka? No I am not Japanese and did not bring my desk with me from Tokyo. I am sure that is the only Japanese phrase they know apart from the usual S.O.P Konnichiwas and Kumbawas. Well its either the broken Japanese or the Bahasa-grish. Polisi? Army? Dari di mana? Where you going? I am ready, with my half crew-cut and all, to tell them that I’m from the Indonesian Special Forces, on holiday, and I have an M16 carbine tucked away in my haversack. So Shoo!
The next day, after breakfast of Indomie from across the road, I make my way to the Kraton, where our friend the Sultan still lives. The guide tells me he’s a busy man these days because the old chap is running for President. And then proceeds to wander off the usual touristy path to show me the 4th Princess’ gleaming red Toyota Celica parked in a garage just behind the Wine House. Yes, you heard correctly. Wine House.
I thought these beverages were Haram for Muslims, I jokingly admonished her.
Oh no, no, these are for the Sultan’s non-Muslim guests, she says.
Yah sure. Anyway the Kraton compound is filled with Gamelan music from a band playing in the courtyard and groups of geriatric Palace guards wandering around purposefully. Well they look old and feeble until one such fella turns around and you catch a glimpse of the long, gold-gilded Kris tucked into the belt of his sarong. It looks like a 5 second circumcision, that thing.
After the walkabout, I meet an old becak driver just outside the entrance whom I take an instant liking to because he is wearing a faded, discolored Nikon T-shirt. He smiles, I offer him a cigarette, and then become his son for the next 2 hours. Because for some reason, Old Uncle Becak has taken to calling me Boy. Even after I tell him I am 35 going on 36. He says his name is Tukiyo. Call me Tokyo, he grins. Gosh. These people are obsessed with all things Japanese. I had to bite my lip not to reply, Nihon-jin des ka?
Tokyo takes me around on his becak like a father sending his over-sized kid to school. We go to Taman Sari (where there is a cool underground mosque), Pasar Ngasem where there are colorful Ornithological specimens on display and a Wayang Kulit workshop where I get a 20 minute lesson on the art of puppet-making and end up buying one of Lord Krishna to frame up. He rides well for a man of fifty-eight. Getting off his becak to push when my 76Kg sadly makes him go backwards once, on a slope. And then, just before Tokyo drops me off at the mall on Malioboro, he strays into the path of an oncoming bus that makes my goolies ride up my throat.
Jom and me, we go to Prambanan in the late afternoon. All thoughts of catching these magnificent Hindu lego blocks in the crimson sunset comes to nought when we step out of the taxi to the pelter of raindrops from skies just a lighter shade of grey from the ancient ash-hues of Temple stone. I swear to myself that if it rains like this on Saturday when we get to Borobudur, I am quitting the temple circuit for good. We are not thoroughly drenched, but wet enough to feel yucky for the Ramayana performance later in the evening. But blessed be the triumvirate of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu though because the Open-air season only begins in May and we’ve got tickets for an indoor, Trimurti Theatre performance just down the road. The surprise of the day comes, however, after we watch Haruman, that white simian, prance about the stage for an hour or so. As we are walking the lonely, poorly-lit road out of Trimurti, an off-duty freelance travel guide stops his MPV and gives us a ride back to Jogja. Taking pity perhaps, on a couple of pathetic Orang Cheenas, one of whom, to his utter surprise, speaks fluent Bahasa while the other tries to look pretty.
I make a solo trip to Solo by train on Friday. When the lady behind the ticket counter collects 7000 Rupiah from me, a little less than one Singapore dollar, I give a little yelp of joy. After all, this is a 65km, 1 hour journey. All this for 90 cents? Almost unheard of from where I hail because this amount will not even get me past 1-stop on the subway. Well the ride is pleasant enough. I am traveling on Bisnis Class. Nevermind that the Train Conductor’s uniform is the wrong shade of white and unpressed, the guitar-toting Mat Rock next to me smells like Wednesday’s dinner and when there are no seats left, incoming passengers lay out newspapers on the cabin floor for a little picnic.
People are civil on Indonesian trains. No one bothers you. Unlike the menagerie of taxis, ojeks and becaks that wait for you outside Indonesian stations. All in their rightful pecking order, the taxis nearest the station entrance with the becaks exiled furthest away. Well technically if you get out of Jogja’s Tugu station and walk for abit along Jln Malioboro, you can hail a Horse & Carriage and buy yourself some semblance of royalty. If the flies from the equine’s back doesn’t get to you first of course.
But back to Solo.
One word, terribly boring. OK that’s 2 words.
The Kraton Surakarta is a big, dilapidated mess. Masjid Agung looks like a Kampung Mosque and the amount of cheap, low quality Batik on show at Pasar Klewer is simply amazing. So I take a stroll along Slamet Riyadi, Solo’s main thoroughfare and supposedly chock-a-block with swanky hotels and shopping centres. I find none. OK I do find one complex with an Internet-enabled cafe and promptly plonk myself down on its sofa.
I take the next train back to Jogja.
And sit myself down at Pizza Hut to pen this, over a Super Supreme.